Dior Homme- minimalism in the making….
So after viewing the historical Winter retrospective of i-D I can’t help but notice the striking resurgence of wide-brimmed head wear and lengthier cut shapes in the runway collections of a number of great houses: Lanvin, Givenchy and Junya Watanabe come to mind. But in particular the style of Dior Homme deserves special praise…
With the much maligned departure of Hedi Slimane as creative director for Dior Homme (he is now pursuing a lucrative and successful career as a portraiture photographer, taking on projects involving heavyweight names such as Robert De Niro, Gisele Bundchen & Frances-Bean Cobain) Kris Van Assche has now ascended as his replacement tackling the spring RTW collection for 2012.
While Van Assche may not have yet surpassed his predecessor in creative output he has made a very substantial and positive sortie into 2012 with conceptually competent and classically tailored collection. Wisely restricting himself in a majority of ways, Assche has opted for a palette composed of shades, tones and very low contrast colours (the greens and almost electric blues stand out as the greatest palette indicators). Assche’s goal in my mind may have been to stimulate concern in the growing conventionality of the suit; asking of its potential buyers how items such as the double breasted jacket and blazer have lost their flavour.
Though Van Assche restricts the ‘fashion forward’ aspects of the collection to the cut and detail of outerwear (the blended pull across blazer is such an exemplar) he also shows touches of reverence for Slimane’s attention to detail in the area of accessories: armbands, wide brimmed fedoras and slim deep bellied totes are the rule of law here and add a touch of rock’n’roll spirit to an otherwise deceptively classical collection.
Interestingly, the constant presence of leather and re-invention of Winter staples (e.g. the trench) is something we’re all seeing alot of in Lanvin’s recent RTW as well…oh well you can never have too much of a good thing right?