AMI Spring Summer 2014 retrospective
Despite one’s initial assumptions, I’ve been writing less and less about fashion week collections since I started on the Pinz. The majority of the collection reviews I conduct are no longer ‘fresh off the presses’ runway stuff and with an almanac of bloggers - each more eloquent than I - who actually get paid to give their opinions, there really isn’t a need for more subjective drivel poisoning the internet. For AMI though, I’ll make an exception and get down to brass tacks, just like the old days (but seriously, don’t ever go through my fucking archive, its embarrassing).
At present, I only own two pieces (both from FW 2012) by the young French designer, but it would seem to me that Alexandre Mattiussi is hitting a consistent stride. AMI’s brand imagery is already quite strong, conjuring images of the nonchalantly well dressed man. The AMI style has a sort of unfussy and unctuous quality about it that makes the brand’s clothing feel like it exists in the real world, outside the bubble of haute couture and on the backs of real men, each a fleshed out individual. Mattiussi has opted to continue the theme of transportation in his SS 2014 offering, with an emphasis this time round on the sky rather than the ground. These are not the clothes of the movie star jet setting to Cannes, rather they encapsulate a wide array of quietly stylish travellers circa French airports in the 1960’s.
A number of the collection’s items make repeat appearances, emphasizing the versatility of the sportcoat and trouser separates that pepper this season. Here, Mattiussi envisions a traveller, mixing a limited number of garments he has literally out of his suitcase, breathing new life into his style by mixing old gear in new ways.
On a personal level, the integral test of good style involves a positive assessment from the everyman. An admission by those not necessarily interested/invested in menswear that a brand’s clothes still look good. Countless people who I have talked to love AMI, men from all walks of life (indeed the many types of men that Mattiussi was influenced by when designing his latest offering) can find some point of attack, whether it be bird prints or smartly tapered dad denim. This figures decisively in my glowing assessment of the brand: almost anybody can pick up an article of AMI clothing and recognise it not as a ‘luxury garment’, ‘a brand’ or ‘fashion’ but simply as relaxed and timeless clothing. Few ‘fashion’ designers are yet to master toeing the line between sincerity and contemporary cool, yet AMI is leaping ahead in this area.
You can peep the entirety of the collection here (including a similarly glowing yet much more succinct review)