YSL- Your Suit Lasts….
As Fashion Week in Paris & Milan comes to a close, it is apparent that this season (as with many fall seasons) has been all about the suit. With its prevalence in one form or another at the Lanvin, Alexander McQueen and Burberry Prorsum shows, it seems only fitting that the week would come full circle with the Yves Saint Laurent show: one that takes the suit to its logical conclusion.
In an intersection divided between the thematic arch of power and wealth, the current YSL collection captures the timeless elegance that the house has come to be associated with tempered by their return to decadence: gratefully in a dark and brooding sort of way. Shearling collared peacoats and cavalry trenches were a staple on show, and the more traditional aspects of the YSL house (razor sharp wing lapels, plaited luxuriant leather, attentive tailoring) were layered under rock-n-roll chic, biker jackets, steel clad battle ready boots, the sense of rebellion in the collection as palpable as the Warhol script rising in the background.
Stefano Pilati, the current YSL creative director for menswear seems to have hit a great stride with this collection. Consistency seems to be a unifying theme as well, marking the current collection with a definitive sense of purpose, as if each model is part of some greater sartorial narrative. Personally my favourite collection this fall and timeless to boot, YSL has never been so reverent and yet so relevant.